Indochina Encompassed

Places To See

Ao Phang-Nga National Marine Park

This sheltered pocket of the Andaman Sea is blessed with verdant limestone cliffs, odd rock formations, submerged karst caves and quaint fishing villages. Around the coast, turquoise waters and scenic islands await the swooshing of your paddles. Hire a canoe, kayak or private boat from the visitors' centre or join a tour organised through an agency in town.

Tours usually include a stop at a Muslim fishing village and James Bond Island (the island rock in The Man with the Golden Gun) within Ao Phang-Nga National Marine Park. The tours take from two to three hours and can be arranged through tour agencies at the Phang-Nga bus station.

Ancient City

Ancient City (Muang Boran), south of Bangkok, is billed as the largest open-air museum in the world. Over 100 of Thailand's most impressive monuments are rendered slightly less impressive in this 80-hectare (200-acre) collection of scale models. The grounds follow the basic shape of Thailand itself and the monuments are placed accordingly.

Visions of Las Vegas and tiny tacky treasures may spring to mind, but the Ancient City is architecturally sophisticated and a preservation site for classical buildings and art forms.If you're an architecture buff on a brief stay, or just a lover of these sorts of educational theme parks, Ancient City is well worth the trip out of town.

Wat Benchamabophit

Wat Benchamabophit, built under Rama V in 1899, is made of white Carrara marble and is a stunning example of modern temple architecture. The real treasure here is a rear courtyard containing a large collection of Buddha images from all periods of Thai Buddhist art.

Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha)

Wat Traimit shelters a 3m-tall, 5.5-tonne, solid-gold Buddha image - an impressive sight. This gleaming figure was once covered in stucco, but during efforts to move it in the 1960s, the figure fell, cracking the stucco and revealing the treasure inside. The covering was probably intended to hide it during one of Burma's many invasions.

Sirinat National Marine Park

Comprising Nai Thon, Nai Yang and Mai Khao beaches, as well as the former Nai Yang National Park and Mai Khao wildlife reserve, Sirinat National Park encompasses 22 sq km of coastal land, plus 68 sq km of sea. The beaches were looking rather glum in the wake of the tsunami, but they will recover in time and suspended park facilities will no doubt be restored.

Improved roads to Hat Nai Thon have brought only a small amount of development to this broad expanse of pristine sand backed by casuarina and pandanus trees. Swimming is quite good here (except at the height of the monsoon), and there is some coral near the headlands at either end of the bay. Down on the beach, umbrellas and sling chairs are available from vendors.

Events

Many festivals are linked to agricultural seasons or to Buddhist or Brahman rituals and follow a lunar calendar. New Year/Songkran, is celebrated in mid-April by 'bathing' Buddha images, paying respects to monks and elders by sprinkling water over their hands, and generally tossing water in the air for fun. Expect to get soaked, unless you'd prefer to skulk in your room. The sowing and harvesting of rice has given rise to a cycle of festivals. To kick off the official rice-planting season in June, the king participates in an ancient Brahman ritual in a large field (Sanam Luang) in central Bangkok. A Rocket Festival is also held in June in the country's northeast, using a volatile mixture of bamboo and gunpowder to convince the sky to send rain for the new rice season; and the rice harvest from September through to May leads to joyous local celebrations throughout Thailand.

The Vegetarian Festival in Phuket and Trang, during which devout Chinese Buddhists eat only vegetarian food, runs for nine days from late September to early October. Merit-making processions are the most visible expression of this festival, but there are also ceremonies at Chinese temples. The Elephant Roundup in Surin in November is a festival popular with the kind of people who enjoy watching pachyderms play soccer. During the Loi Krathong Festival, held after the rainy season (usually in November), candle-lit floats are cast into waterways to bring good fortune for the coming year. Bangkok and Thailand's northern provinces are especially good places to catch this celebration.

The exact dates for festivals may vary from year to year, either because of the lunar calendar or because local authorities have decided to change festival dates. For specific dates, contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; www.tourismthailand.org).

Pre-Departure Information

When to go?

Thailand's monsoons arrive around July and last into November (the 'rainy season'). They can be uncomfortably, unpredictably sticky. This is followed by a dry, cool period from November to mid-February, followed by much higher relative temperatures from March to June.

By far the best time to visit is between November and February when the weather is kind and the beaches are at their finest. This period is Thailand's main season for national and regional festivals.

The peak season is November to late March, with secondary peak months in July and August. If your main objective is to avoid crowds and to take advantage of discounted rooms and low-season rates, you should consider travelling during the least crowded months (April to June, September and October). On the other hand it's not difficult to leave the crowds behind, even during peak months, if you simply avoid the most popular destinations (eg, Chiang Mai and all islands and beaches). This is also the prime time for diving in terms of visibility and accessibility.

Travel Visa Overview

Visitors from 41 different countries can stay for 30 days without a visa (this is known as a visa exemption). Check with a Thai embassy or consulate if you plan on arriving without a visa or visit www.mfa.go.th/web/12.php. Visa exemptions can be renewed by leaving and reentering the country for a maximum stay of 90 days. If you plan to stay in Thailand more than a month, you should apply for a 60-day Tourist Visa before arrival. These can be extended by up to 60 days.

Electricity

220V

50Hz

Electrical Plugs

Japanese-style plug with two parallel flat blades

European plug with two circular metal pins

Health Information

Japanese B encephalitis

While a rare disease in travellers, at least 50,000 locals are infected each year. This viral disease is transmitted by mosquitoes. Most cases occur in rural areas and vaccination is recommended for travellers spending more than one month outside of cities. There is no treatment, and a third of infected people will die while another third will suffer permanent brain damage. Thailand is a high-risk area.

Rabies

Many animals can be infected with rabies (such as dogs, cats, bats and monkeys) and it's their saliva that is infectious. Any bite, scratch or even lick from a warm-blooded, furry animal should be cleaned immediately and thoroughly. Scrub with soap and running water, and then apply alcohol or iodine solution. Medical help should be sought promptly to receive a course of injections to prevent the onset of symptoms. Left untreated, rabies is uniformly fatal.

Dengue fever

This mosquito-borne disease is becoming increasingly problematic throughout Southeast Asia, especially in the cities. As there is no vaccine available it can only be prevented by avoiding mosquito bites. The mosquito that carries dengue bites day and night, so use insect-avoidance measures at all times. Symptoms include high fever, severe headache and body aches (dengue was previously known as 'breakbone fever'). Some people develop a rash and experience diarrhoea. The southern islands of Thailand are particularly high risk. There is no specific treatment, just rest and paracetamol - do not take aspirin as it increases the likelihood of haemorrhaging. See a doctor to be diagnosed and monitored.

HIV/AIDS

HIV is now one of the most common causes of death in people under the age of 50 in Thailand. Heterosexual sex is now the main method of transmission in Thailand.

Hepatitis

A problem throughout the region, this food and water-borne virus infects the liver, causing jaundice (yellow skin and eyes), nausea and lethargy. There is no specific treatment for hepatitis A, you just need to allow time for the liver to heal. All travellers to Southeast Asia should be vaccinated against hepatitis A.

Hepatitis B is the only sexually transmitted disease (STD) that can be prevented by vaccination. It is spread by body fluids, including sexual contact. In some parts of Southeast Asia up to 20% of the population are carriers of hepatitis B, and usually unaware of it. The long-term consequences can include liver cancer and cirrhosis.

Malaria

This serious and potentially fatal disease is spread by mosquito bites. Symptoms range from fever, chills and sweating, headache, diarrhoea and abdominal pains to a vague feeling of ill-health. Seek medical help immediately if malaria is suspected. Without treatment malaria can rapidly become more serious and can be fatal. If medical care is not available, malaria tablets can be used for treatment. If you do contract malaria, be sure to be re-tested once you return home as you can harbour malaria parasites even if you are symptom free. Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito bites at all times by sleeping under a mosquito net impregnated with repellent, wearing light-coloured clothing, long trousers and long-sleeved shirts; using mosquito repellents containing the compound DEET on exposed areas and refraining from using perfumes and aftershave.

Thailand's more susceptible areas for malaria include northern Kanchanaburi Province (especially Thung Yai Naresuan National Park) and parts of Trat Province along the Cambodian border (including Ko Chang).

Weather Information

Climate-wise, the best time for visiting most of Thailand is between November and February when it is not too wet and not too hot. The south is best visited when the rest of Thailand is miserably hot (March to May). If you're spending time in Bangkok, be prepared to roast in April and do some wading in October - probably the most challenging two months, weather-wise, in the capital.

History and Culture

Culture

Religion and monarchy are the cornerstones of Thai culture, and they permeate everyday life. It's the custom to stand for the royal anthem before films are shown, and for the national anthem which is played across towns, villages and even Bangkok Skytrain stations twice daily.

For the beach-holidaymaker and Bangkok fly-by-nighter, it is often easy to overlook these cultural subtleties - the Thais are a gregarious and accepting lot - but a little bit of respect goes a long way in finding out more about the country's people and culture.

Pre-20th Centure History

The earliest civilisation in Thailand is believed to have been that of the Mons in central Thailand, who brought with them a Buddhist culture from the Indian subcontinent. In the 12th century, the Mons met a Khmer group moving from the east, the Sumatran-based Srivijaya culture moving north, and people from the Thai state of Nan Chao migrating south. The first Siamese capital was created by Thai princes in Sukhothai with later centres created in Chiang Mai and, notably, Ayuthaya.

The Burmese invaded Siam (as Thailand was known until 1939) in both the 16th and 18th centuries, capturing Chiang Mai and destroying Ayuthaya. The Siamese eventually expelled the Burmese and moved their capital to Thonburi. In 1782, the current Chakri dynasty was founded by King Rama I and the capital was relocated once more, this time across the river to Bangkok.

In the 19th century, Siam maintained its independence by deftly playing off one European power against another.

Modern History

The 20th century brought great change to Thailand. In 1932, a peaceful coup converted the country into a constitutional monarchy and in 1939 Siam became Thailand. During WWII, the Thai government sided with the Japanese. After the war, the country was dominated by the military and experienced more than twenty coups and countercoups, interspersed with short-lived experiments with democracy. Democratic elections in 1979 were followed by a long period of stability and prosperity as power shifted from the military to the business elite.

In February 1991 a military coup ousted the Chatichai government, but bloody demonstrations in May 1992 led to the reinstatement of a civilian government with Chuan Leekpai at the helm. This coalition government collapsed in May 1995 over a land-reform scandal, but the replacement prime minister Banharn Silpa-archa was no better. Dubbed a 'walking ATM' by the Thai press, he was forced to relinquish the leadership just over a year later after a spate of corruption scandals. Ex-general and former deputy PM Chavalit Yongchaiyudh headed a dubious coalition until late 1997, when veteran pragmatist Chuan Leekpai retook the reins.

In 1997 the Thai baht pretty much collapsed, dragging the economy (and many other southeast Asian economies) down in a screaming heap. The unfinished skyscrapers around Bangkok are a legacy of this downturn. In August 1997 the International Monetary Fund stepped in with a bailout package of austerity measures which - although it slowed Thailand's growth dramatically and hit the poor the hardest - seemed to have turned things around by early 1998. By the turn of the new century, Thailand's economy was no longer free falling, but rebuilding had only just begun. Genuine attempts to weed out corruption seem underway, but the poverty-stricken of Thailand are still wary of promises and agitating for more reforms.

Recent History

The relatively new Thai Rak Thai Party (TRT; Thais Love Thais), led by Thaksin Shinawatra, emerged as a force in Thai politics in the late 20th century, and saw many sitting MPs defect to its ranks. In parliamentary elections held in January 2001, TRT trounced Prime Minister Chuan Leekpai's democrats.

Throughout his time in office Thaksin was able to broadly deliver on his promises and his popularity remained high among rural voters, his true power base. Among human-rights groups, however, he was less adored. He was dogged by rumours of corruption, drew criticism for restricting the media - Thaksin controlled Thailand's only independent TV station - and instigated a heavy handed 'war on drugs' that left thousands dead. Even more damning was his failure to end the mounting sectarian violence in the country's southern provinces.

In December 2004 the west-facing Andaman coast was hit by a tsunami, which killed more than 5000 people. Worst affected were small family-run businesses and fishermen, whose buildings and boats were lost to the waters. Aside from areas such as Ao Lo Dalam on Phi Phi island and the Khao Lak/Takua Pa areas in Phang-Nga province, the majority of tourist-reliant areas reopened within weeks or even days of the event.

Amid claims of corruption that sparked huge public demonstrations, Thaksin called a snap election on April 2, 2006. Although TRT won over 50% of the vote, the legitimacy of the victory was questioned as the major opposition parties boycotted the poll. Following an audience with the king, Thaksin chose to form an interim government with deputy Chidchai Vanasatidya as prime minister. In early May the courts overturned the April election result and called for a new vote in October. Thaksin then further angered his opponents by resuming control of the government. The situation came to a head on September 19. While Thaksin was in New York attending a meeting of the UN General Assembly, army commander-in-chief General Sonthi Boonyaratkalin carried out a bloodless coup, scrapped the constitution and appointed retired General Surayud Chulanont as interim prime minister.

The coup was condemned internationally but many Thais saw it as bringing to an end the rule of a corrupt leader and his government. This latter stance was given greater weight by the king's indirect support and approval for the coup, which again confirmed his key role in Thai politics. With escalating violence in the south and increasing controls on the media, many in Thailand wonder just what the future holds for their brittle democracy.